Sailing in Western France                           Sailing in Western France
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2008 After coming back from our far east holiday we are ready for the sailing season once again.

Back to France......

Before setting off this year I fitted the boom preventer that I showed you last year and I have to say it works very well. 

La Turballe

Back in France getting the boat ready for the season, we found she was in good condition after the winter and soon ready to go. Sunday 25th May we set off first stop La Turballe, about 34 miles from LRB a 24hr port so we could get away early in the morning. Needless to say the wind was on the nose so we tacked all the way. Nice shower when we got there and all for the cost of 9 Euros. (Just like the Solent!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

Photos of the port entrance which you cannot see until it opens up when you close the centre of the breakwater, also the "visitors Square" inside, in the high season this square is full of boats so you can walk fom one side to the other.

Text Box: Absail Shakle £6.50
Text Box: The Square
Text Box: Harbour entance

Port Joinville

Early start from La Turballe and had a good sail until we got just past "Chanal Du Sud" Ile Noirmoutier

when the wind increased to 30 knots so had to reef down quickly, this is the same area we had problems

with last year. 40 minutes later we had 15 knots and so good sail to Ile D'yeu and Port Joinville. A young seagull was trying to peck at its reflection in the boat next to us.

That afternoon "Virginia R" arrived after going through the same winds. The next day we had lunch in the local town and were delighted with the excellent food Jacki and Linda with their "Pud's"

Yours looks bigger than mine!!!

La Sables D'Olonne,

After 2 free days in Joinville will elect to move on to Les Sables D'Olonne, which is about 35 miles down the coast.

Wind on the nose again, managed to sail a little but had to put the engine on in the end. Saw our first Dolphins of the year just off the corner of the island a pod of 3 or 4.

Arrived Les Sables but this time we elected to go into the new marina ( Quai Garnier) on the Town side of the entrance it was opened very late last year but really this spring they have their first visitors. The area was taken off the fishermen as they are not using the area effectivly and the town side needs the monies that Yachties bring. However the fishermen like always show their displeasure by speeding passed when going out early in the morning, and there is more noise than in the old port on the other side on the entrance. Hey Ho, its free and is a change, with WI FI access via the cafes on the quay.

The next day was washing day and shopping to store up for a visit to "Ars-en-Re".

These photos show the new pontoons and the habour wall with the shops and cafes along, also "Seren" Rob and Anne and "Virginia R" Bill and Jacki. You can pick up WiFi here.

Ars en Re

We decided to go to Ars en Re next, so up early to catch the tide down. Fished all the way but no luck. Arrived at 45 minutes befor high water as I draw 2 mts loaded, and crossed the short cut into the channel as explained before. We booked in for 7 nights at the cost of 70 euros, things are going up but thats life, at least we are not ripped off. Lots of cycle paths on the Island.

Text Box: Baby

Text Box: Light house on Ars En Re

La Rochelle

After a well earned rest of a week we left for La Rochelle, Caught our supper on the way and got a pontoon when we got there, for Minimes that's a tall order to fill.

Minimes has to be the worst run marina in Europe, and I have been in a lot. You can find a 5 mtre rib berthed in a 40 Foot boat space and lots of 6 mter spaces empty. they are not interested in the logistics of control. The marina has such a bad reputation for visiting yachts that they miss it out now, all this has changed over the last 4 years.

As I have said before you have to get here lunch time on Sat or Sun to get a space as the ribs are out fishing.

Or go up to the old port pontoon square or into the wet lock.

Text Box: Visitors
pontoons

Ile D'Oleron

We left Minimes for St Denis on an Island off shore called Ile D'Oleron Booked in for a week and they have WiFi here as well now, the signal drops out a lot and you have to reconnect a number of times to get it stable.

As we are in the "summer season" now it costs more and a week cost 96 Euros. But there is a problem , another rally is due this weekend!!! so we asked for pontoon out of the way which they sorted for us.

Island Girl, Karm of Conway, are here as well.  The weather was hot sailing over and we had a good sail all the way, however the clouds built up and the sky darkened, until we had a torential down pour with lightning thrown in as well, it was all gone an hour later.

The storm on its way

Over the last 2 years the Harbour has changed and lots of bars and cafes have been built on the quay, but it remains a very nice place to stay. So we stayed an extra day before leaving to go back up north," SLOWLY"

Just a beautiful place to rest up, evenings are something special.

Les Sables D'olonne

 We took the outside route back north to Les Sables and got the cross swell in between the Islands, not something I would have chosen, it was very lumpy for the first hour and a half but as we left the channel behind it flatened off. We arrived back in the new marina and this time used the bottom end of the line of pontoons ( "A" pontoon) as they are furthest away from the wall, The music festival was starting in 2 days and we would still be here, its very nice but good to get away from it as well. There is a WiFi cafe' here on the quay called Bar L'Amateur just buy a beer if you cannot connect for free.

We stayed for the music festival ( its on the weekend of the longest day) which takes over the town from 18.00 till 02.00 but goes on all night, so don't expect to get much sleep. We walked around the bands and were surprised to find so many playing all sorts of music. It may be noisy but you have to see it once!!!!

 

St  Gilles Croix de Vie

Next port is St Gilles this is an old fishing port now given over to sailing and attracts some major events of French yacht racing. Its a narrow entrance that has a cardinal outside to mark the track and make it easy to find. There is a right turn that takes you past the fishing boats and the marina pontoons to the visitor pontoon at the end of a mile channel, but its marked well and the signs for the "accueil" (reception) are well placed. You will probably be rafted on this pontoon so if you are staying for a longer period ask for a pontoon berth, they are very friendly and will sort one out for you, but remember the tide runs through the pontoon at a funny angle and you can get caught out very easy.

Text Box: Entrance from sea
Text Box: Visitors
Text Box: Capitainerie

Text Box: Entrance from inside
The port is in the middle of the town so shops are very close to the marina, an easy walk (200 yards) for most things. The cost in June is 20 euros a night all in, prices start to go up now, so we start back home. Next stop Ile D' Yeu.

The weather was not settled therefore we decided to go when the weather was OK, we only had one day in Joinville before leaving early in the morning.As there seemed to be another front approaching.

The weather was F3 untill we neared the Loire estuary when it went up to F5 quickly, as we had lots of time to get back we altered course to Pornic which is not on out track directly but takes us nearer the coast so the track across the Loire is shorter.

Pornic

When in Pornic (17 euro) we met up with "Shearwater" again and berthed 2 down from them on some single pontoons, very happy there and took my time washing the salt off and filing the water tank, when a Moody 29 " Chit Chat" came in manoevering to get into a space. Unfortunately made an error and collided heavily with the stern of Odysseus. Lucky for me the force was taken on the boarding ladder which acted as a crumple zone so only the ladder was damaged and the Stainless was fractured in 3 places with minor cuts to my gel coat and decals. These things happen out there.

We left Pornic early the next day again and made the last 47 miles to catch the 14.00 lock. Dealing with the insurance was a difficult matter altogether.

We tried for 2 days to phone the claim line of Saga insurance, not an "easy solution" as the adverts say.  In the end we had to phone my Daughter in the UK and get her to phone and ask them to phone me back in France.  Points to remember:-

  • France do not have coin operated phones they are all cards.
  • French phone cards do not aways allow 0845 number and do not allow 09 numbers even if they did it would last about 5 minutes and you will be "on hold " for more than that. Typical uk call centre rip off.
  • When you get through they say get quotes, this is difficault as you do not have a car. and there is not any bus service, and if you are very lucky you may have just one marine yard that will do it.
  • UK insurance companies do not seem to realise that things are very different in France.

We are now ready to fly back home for the rest of July as it gets very busy out here, and prices go up out of all proportion. back for 3 weeks R and R.

We put the boat to sleep for 3 weeks and fly home from Rennes

 

Back out in France

Sloop coming back from Brest week. Taken by Bill off V.R.

 

The first job is to find out about the ladder that was put in for repair before we left for home. After contacting the fabricator he was working away and I could collect my ladder on Sunday at 10.00. He did not turn up, thats France for you. Back in LRB I got our harbour master to phone him needless to say he was in contact with me via my mobile and we set up a collection time of 10.00 the next day. He was there and the ladder was completed an exact copy of the original, all for 160 euros. I now have to fit the decals, repair the gell coat and fit the ladder.

Left La Roche-Bernard on the Wed, off to Le Cruesty 30 mile up the coast, the weather was overcast when we started but soon cleared as we left the shore line behind. Fishing lines out and a gentle cruise (very little wind) at 4.5 kts, It took 2 hours before we caught our fish and then one fell off, so had to make do with the one as the wind piped up and we were off at 6.5 kts the rest of the way. Reception launch met us as we entered and directed us to our berth. next morning, shopping!!! we always come here for the sales as they are nearing the end of the season and bargains are to be had.

Morbihan

After Le Cruesty we made our way to the Auray river as there was a lot of unsettled weather headding our way and its protected up there. It's always a nice passage up the river as you see lots of beautiful places on the way, lots of Islands, a fish farm, coastal properties, small villages until you get to the top at St Goustan. We have 5 nights there and await the bad weather to pass over.

We meet Rafiki (Ted and Erica) from Warsash Sailing Club on the buoy and a beautiful Moody made in Hong Kong. I needed some petrol for the generator so had to go into St Goustan on market day1.5 miles up river to get it, made the day by having a very nice lunch and a slow trip back down river.

After a 4 day stay up river we came back down to Le Cruoesty to meet up with friends who were coming by road to see us. When entering the habour we saw our second pod dolphins of the year. It was the 15th Aug so Assumption day in France and loads of boats go to sea just off the port and are blessed by the local priest who joined them by way of the life boat, a very interesting day. We decided to go back up river as it was going to rain again and it would be very noisy here at night with all the revellers, it goes on till early morning and some times all night. Its getting a bad name by attracting people for the wrong reasons, mind you its only on the holidays that you get this.

Off on a walk to Port Navalo just around the bay (around the corner from Le Crouesty) and came back via the coastal path, visited the supermarket so ready for trip up river at 14.00. 2 hours after HW because the tide still comes out at the entrance to the morbihan for another 2.5 hours. see the photo below, this is a 43 foot boat in force 6/7 entering the Morbihan at about 14 knots SOG (  photos never seem to show the real wind and sea)

We have twice been  up river to Bono as the weather has been raining and very windy. This is the cheapest safe mooring there is in the area, at 7 euros a night in high season. The habour master brings out the Meteo (weather) sheet each moring to the boat  and if asked will bring some bread the next day.

Vannes

The next trip will be to Vannes to see the new facilities they have built last winter, I am told that they are excellent and a very good meal can be had at the capitainerie!!!! The cost per night in high season for a 10 mtr boat is 20 euros this includes electricty, showers, and water.

Text Box: Gardens in Vannes

Text Box: New facility top floor a cafe, good value, good food.
The new facility is very good, we tried the cafe and the food was good value and a pleasant view across the marina. 2  course for 2 people St Jacques, and steak plus a bottle of cider was 36 euros. Wifi is free inside the cafe.

Stayed for 2 nights and desided to make for Port Haliguen but on leaving the morbihan the wind was F5 and on the nose so decided to go back to LRB. We turned left and reefed the main and jib, still managed 7.5 knots average for the trip to Vilaine estuary but got there 2 hours too early as I need 2 mtrs of water to get in. Had an uncomfortable wait running on just a "patch" of jib to make stearage way for 2 hours and then were touching the mud for a good 2 miles before we entered the river. Caught the 18.00 lock with another 30 boats the usual manic 40 minutes to get through and were back "home" by 19.45. We now have WiFi in the port of LRB.

Piriac

Decided to go out again this time with Paul and Gloria off Bridie and David and Penny off Freetrader. out on the 0900 lock. When we got down to the sea there was not any wind so sailed, drifted, and then motored on to Piriac. This is a locked port that was extended 2 years ago, its in  lovely village with a good market and local shops.

Water over the sill is marked by a tidal hieght gauge (Red digital lights) on a post as you get close to the sill, see below looking out to sea.

Text Box: Sill and lights

The other picture is of some local lads diving for money off the pontoon gangway. This is one of the most expensive ports along this coast and a 10 mtr boat in the high season will pay 28 Eruos, it's not a port we go to normally because of the tidal restrictions, we tend to go around the corner to La Turballe, it's cheaper and freeflow. We all go out for dinner in one of the many restaurants in the village 33 Eruos per couple. Next day the market supplied an excellent fresh crab that we cooked and had for lunch, excellent.

Stayed for 2 days then off to Port Haliguen.

Big Cat Country

Port Haliguen.

Not much wind did a little sailing but in the end motor sailed with short oportunities to sail along the way, took pictures of Bridie and fished but no luck.

First time in Haliguen this year and caught up with Virginia R and Free Trader again. Had a late drink and catch up with what has been happening with people exchanged some books and both boats departed for the north the next day.  Had walk to see the sculptures as I had done in 2005 and took the ladies picture this time so you can see what he is looking at!!!!

Whats he looking at!!

 Our two days are up so off we go again to La Trinite sur Mer. Serious sailing here, big cats, round the world racing.

La Trinite-sur-Mer

 Arived at half tide (flood) and knew it would be difficult to berth in the visitors slot nearest the wall as the tide crosses the pontoons at 45 degrees at hell of a rate and on the flood you are being carried with it, all this in a restricted area to manoeuvre in, make sure you are ready to go full astern. I was well prepared and knew the dangers but still took 2 goes to get in, the trade off is speed and stopping, too slow and you are dead, across the stern of other boats with the tide pushing you on to them. The French stand on the Quay to watch as the boats try to berth, it's their entertainment for the day.

oe

The weather has been good to us for the last week and we have been walking around the town and watching life go by from the cockpit also sharing the cooking with Paul and Gloria off Bridie. The town has some wonderful architecture and worth the walk around, you can follow the river up under the bridge for 5 miles if you have the need for it, we go for a more gentle stroll.

Back to Port Crouesty

The season is coming to an end now thinking of going back to LRB, next stop Crouesty, a very short sail of  7 miles down the coast. Having been there for 1 night another gale is due through, so we are staying here. Last sail of the year down to LRB getting there for the 18.00 lock, another nightmare lock full, crash, bang, wallop, as boats hit the wall and other boats, nothing changes here. Fending off a French boat from my stern the lady owner was heard to say:-

"Do not touch my boat"

 in an excellent Hello Hello accent, had us all in stitches.

Boat put to bed for the winter and we return to UK.

Evan the swans have had enough of the wind.

 

End