Sailing in Western France Sailing in Western France

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2006 has arrived all to quickly and so many things left to do before setting off on our ventures again, a new "stack pack" for the boat another car to take to France and a trip up

"Spinaker Tower" in Portsmouth. You can certainly see the area from up there, but choose a clear day.

Spinaker Tower Portsmouth

We leave for France in good weather catching the overnight crossing from Portsmouth getting us into St Malo for 0700 the next day. We arrive at the boat 11.00 that morning

and have the rest of the day to get the boat in a livable condition. The next day I set about cleaning and jet washing all the surfaces in glorious weather, so good I got sun burn.

Then we paid the price, 5 days of continuous wind (6/7/8's and rain in bucket loads. Our enthusiasm slowed some what and it was a week (and a good book) later I managed to

get the main sail on.

Off we went on the 26th May, catching the 14.00 lock. Because the weather had been bad for a long time there were a lot of boats waiting to get into the lock, clearly not all

were going to get through, however we have a "devious plan" and managed to get through. 28 boats got through and so we had a very easy sail just around the corner to Piriac just

about 20 miles ( you can see Piriac in 2005 write up)

We got up early and set off at 07.00 for Ile D'Yeu Port Joinville, we can get there in one hop (49 miles). The weather was overcast and very misty, maximum vision 1 mile but mostly

a lot less, down to 200 yards. 1/2 a mile from Joinville we left the bank of mist and fog and came out into the sun. Entered harbour at 15.00 booked in for 2 nights. Next day we walked

to the Frigate café (a place to keep to yourself) just outside Joinville for lunch, an excellent place to go as not many visitors know about it. The fishing fleet is on the decline and not

many of the older type vessels are seen any more, only much larger boats are out at sea.

Ile D'Yeu

Frigate Cafe' Joinville Ile d'Yeu

Les Sables d'Olonne

We left for La Sables d'Olonne at 15.00 about F4 and the wind astern all the way same as last year, only this year we had a lot more swell for the last 3 miles before entry at 18.30.

I now understand that we get a very strong sea breeze building up on hot days and this with a stern sea made life uncomfortable, by 21.00 all wind was gone and life was wonderful

again. The next day was washing day so off to the washing machine shop for the duration of the morning, 2 loads and a drier, all was very good and reasonable priced at 4 euros

a load. Later in the day we walked up to the point to look out at the entrance that gave us the trouble and it was as flat as a pancake. Les Sables d'Olonne has a very good sailing

community and a good range of services for any boating requirements. The town is across the harbour by ferry or walk round (about 40 minutes) we went by ferry.

Entrance to La Sables d'Olonne

Entrance at Les Sables d'Olonne, the old ramparts, the town is in the background across the harbour. The sun just manages to come out.

St Martin

June the 1st we left Les Sables d'Olonne at 0630 wind on the nose but ok for St Martin on the Ile de Re' we arrived at 10.15 15 minutes before the lock closed so well pleased,

a passage of 7 knots all the way. As we could not get a finger berth we only stopped for one night. We had 4 other boats outside of us by the time the morning came, were glad to

leave. ( see St Martin in 2005 write up.)

Get a finger berth and its great, if not be aware. The boats outside of us were good French sailing people of our age so very competent. The town is a classic French holiday Island,

but very nice.

When going through to La Rochelle the bridge can be seen for miles, the south route through is to the right of the centre and the support pillars carry port and starboard symbols

where the channel is, no panic can be seen from a distance.

Ile d'Rea

La Rochelle

Left St Martin at 07.30 for La Rochelle and hoped to get a berth in Minimes, no such luck. This port has changed and they do not support "true" visiting yachts any more. we

doubled up on another "Brit" as there was not any other room and went for a shower. Later we received a phone call from Virginia R, Bill and Jackie who were on their way to

LaRochelle, I told them about Minimes so they said they would go on up to the town itself and let us know what it was like up there. Message back, great, room for us so we

waited for the tide and up we went.

We had a great time and this trip walked around all the places you are supposed to. Virginia R tucked up in the corner in the town, and us on the next pontoon with the tower in

the background.

La Rochelle is the same price as Minimes 37 euros for 3 nights as the 3rd night is free. It was the French national holiday so a bit crowded over the weekend so we stayed another

night, it was a very relaxing time and the sun was out with the temperature up to 28 c.

Rochefort

After 4 days of exploring the town we decided to move on to Rochefort on the river Charente, so left at 0830 just off low water, when going down the channel just out side of the old

port Bill went aground, he was 1.4 mtrs so I had no chance with 2 mtrs of keel. After working our way around the problem the fault was a kink in the channel that we had found

which is in line with the transit markers. The deepest part of the channel is away from the red buoys by a good 50 mtrs.

Off to Rochefort, a nice gentle sail down past Ile d'Aix cutting the corner into the Charente channel Linda watching we do not get too close., we passed Fort Boyard as we turned.

Its a long way up the river! and takes forever or as it seems, but eventually we saw the transporter bridge so we know we were near. The lock is only open once a day for

20 minutes so if you are not there "tough" We made it OK with 10 minutes to spare.

Virginia R passing Ile d'Aix and Fort Boyard just about to enter the river channel, remember this river has some very large vessels using it, in the order of 10,000 tons and they cannot stop or they

loose their steerage way, look out for them at around high water.

We stay for 6 days here as it is very interesting and there are lots of things to see. The town was a dockyard for the French fleet and has a good collection of building that are

restored including the "rope works" know as the "Corderie Royale" and the Hermione project that is the building of a frigate as a copy of the original which is taking 10 years and

due to have the hull completed next year.

It has been very hot here and we have been getting the jobs done in the morning as the afternoon has been just too hot!


	Guess Who!!

A visit around the dockyard is a must and to miss it would be a mistake. La Corderie Royale is the centrepiece and was built in 1666 with a massive length of 374 metres, it was

built on a wooden raft as the area is salt marsh, they now know the mud goes down for 30 metres under the wooden raft. It was set on fire when the German forces left the area,

but Rochefort has rebuilt it to its passed glory, an excellent visit.

The other must visit is the building of the frigate Hermione which was the ship that La Fayette sailed to America in to help them fight the British 1780, He landed in Boston 38 days

later.

There is a small grave yard in Boston U.S.A. dedicated to this event. It is a 10 year project and next year sees the vessel floated off into the fitting out yard, we hope to come

back to see this next year, although it will be some time before the vessel makes its maiden voyage.

Next visit was to walk down to the transporter bridge which is about 40 minutes walk from the marina along the river path. The bridge is still in operation though only for foot

passengers, good value 1.8 euros for a return ticket and visitor entrance to the museum. It was built in 1900 by Ferdinand Arnodin.

Bill, in his usual manner waiting for his photo to be taken. It was another very hot day so after the bridge, lunch was calling so we walked back into town and partook in a very nice

lunch.

Guess who's having his picture taken!!!

Ile D'Oleron

We left Rochefort at 0600 on the high water, hour and a half down the river on our way to St Denis. The wind was from the south east so we had a very nice sail along the coast up

to St Denis on the Ile D'Oleron. Tried to do some fishing but even with the jib rolled in we still were over 5.5 kts so had to give up. Arrived just off the harbour but too early to

get over the sill had to wait on one of the 3 white "waiting buoys" half a mile off shore, and it rolls a lot! we got in 3 hours before high water and I need 2 mtrs. There is a green

marker post with the 2.5 metre mark on it and you can see this from the white buoy mooring. (with bin's)

Next day "Freetime of Hamble" came in (with Jasper) having come through the canals in May to Redon and then down the coast to meet with us. Mike is one of the characters from

Warsash Sailing club on the Hamble so as it was our wedding anniversary (37) and Mike & |Anna's the day after, we booked dinner in the local French Caribbean restaurant with

Alan and Mo off "Alamo" and Bill and Jackie off "Virginia R." had a great meal and Mike rounded off the evening with some of his "magic tricks" as he is a member of the magic

circle. We also had the bikes out for a ride around some of the Island, as I said in 2005 this Island has such a lot of cycle paths that it makes riding very enjoyable. Linda, Anna and

I went for a swim, very nice once you had got into the water.

After 3 days we moved on to Ars en Re which is on the Ile De Re the turning point of this years cruise as we are now heading back to La Roche Bernard. Fier D'ARS is a wetlands

and has a very small and tidal channel which I have to get right, and I can be "neaped" which means the tide does not rise enough for me to get back out so I have to wait several days

to get back out. However I had a "cunning plan" and went in with Virginia R who knows this channel very well, so just followed them in.

Before we get to Ars we have to go under the road bridge again, this shows Bill and Jackie and the port and Stb marks on the pillars.

An hour before low water this picture is taken from the marina entrance, as you see not much water in the channel even the marker buoys lie down.

This place is a haven of tranquility, and is such a difference to St Martin just down the coast. But its alive with mosquitoes in the season, so, be careful, nets on at all times and spray

the boat before bed time, not you in it though. There is a market every day just up the road from the port all your needs satisfied there. The Island is made for bikes so you will see

them every where, and the roads are marked for the cyclists and the French go there a lot.

Guess who!!! and how's this for a transit marker.

Now you see it, Now you don't!!!!!

Lots of nice architecture all around this area, fishing and salt farming was its previous life, but changing rapidly to tourism.

Just another local "fete" and they know how to put on a B.B.Q. These events are getting quite common now, its that time of year and they draw in crowds of people, just what the

village needs.

Ile d'Yeu via Les sables d'Olonne

Time to leave, after 3 days so a gentle potter back out to sea, as usual wind on the nose so close hauled all the way up to Les Sables d'Olonne, we wanted to get some washing

done so decided to stay here for 3 days, next morning off we go to the "laverie" and guess what, the maintenance man had all of the machines in bits, annual overhaul. Back to the

boat in a huff and left for Ile d'Yeu, wind on the nose all the way again.

We arrived 18.00 and found a place in-between two other boats, Bill SMS text me saying welcome to "little Britain". The port was full of British registered boats, I have not see so

many since UK, all seem to be in transit going north or south.

WE stayed for 3 days, got the washing done and went off on our bikes for a day around half of the Island, looking at some of the tourist sights, this is a Napoleonic Semaphore station,

still used today. Also some of the little bays where life has not changed for a very long time.

Pornic

Time up and off we go, up to a port that is a little off the transit track of north to south, we motor sailed as the wind was none existent until the afternoon, we had time to waste again

to get over the shallows, tried fishing , no luck. Arrived at my waypoint 14.00 to give us 2 hours of rising tide before going in.

Very nice marina, built just off the river mouth, so an easy walk along sea front to the town. Lots of restaurants here but not many supermarket type shops, we found one (super U)

at the far end of the Habour to the right and up the hill. The second night we were treated to a firework display, but it did not start till 11.30 pm. The next night we had another display,

this time forked lightening and a down pour of rain. The port was worth going to and we will go again.

The walk way to the town and the super market.

Back to La Roche-Bernard

We left for home with a gentle breeze and made good time, so again had to wait for the tide to fill in the river for us. Out came the fishing line and we caught 2 good size mackerel

very quickly, so had to stop, only take what you need.

Through the lock and on to L.R.B. for 18.00 and a very nice fish supper.

Another good trip down to the Islands is over and we are glad we go early as its not so hot in May and early June, but July and August will be very hot indeed

and very crowded, also the prices double for these 2 months.

Up for a BBQ

10 of us go to a BBQ at David and Penny's cottage just north of La Roche-Bernard, had another good get together, 8 of us from the Warsash area. Good to meet up with friends

again.

The boat is booked in for lifting out so we can get the maintenance done, I have not anti fouled since 2004 but it still does not need it as the changes from fresh water to salt kills

off all of the fouling as soon as we go into salt water again the fish are lining up to get at it, we can hear them going long the bottom of the boat.

So down to Arzal for a 0900 lift out. Just look at the lack of fouling, only a light slime to get off so leave it to Linda!!

All that is left before we come back to UK is to do a little site seeing and sample the culinary delights of the area. The temperature is rising now and we are finding the boat

ashore is not the place to be.The hull temperature is over 40c until the early hours of the morning, making a good nights sleep impossible. Out with Paul and Gloria,

top left the panoramic restaurant above L.R.B. Bottom right a converted fishing boat restaurant on the river.

Tour De France, Voile (sailing)

This year the round France sailing event come into the river and raced from La Roche-Bernard up the river for about 8 miles and back, all matched boats so

highly competitive as you can see. The village has put a great deal of time into the event which does cause a lot of inconvenience to all of the village.

Mum 30's in the order of 40 boats, the start and finish was very close. 3 days and all was over as they continued their way around France.

Bastille night 14th July

Always a great day, and goes on till around 12.30 when the fireworks are staged. The village takes a lot of trouble to stage this event and it always goes well, they cook for

around 1000 people from 19.30 till 23.00 the whole area is grid locked with cars coming into the village for the evening, a well run and well attended event, never any trouble

just a good time.

Mussels and French fry's for about a 1000 people!!!! want to try it. Its all just too much and I have not seen the fireworks yet!!!!

Another great Bastille night as only the French know how. We get back to the boat which is about 5 miles down the river in Arzal and the temperature is still 37 degrees c in

the saloon. Not a comfortable night!!

We say bye Paul & Gloria, have a good trip and see you soon, Linda and David take the pictures at the lock.

That's the end of part one for this year, we go back to UK for a few weeks and leave Odysseus

"laid up but ready to go."

Back to LRB Aug 8th

Back to LRB after lifting in at Arzal, nice to be back, I think this place should be renamed "little Britain" as the number of British boats visiting each year grows substantially

I hope they do not spoilt it like they have done in UK, all we need now is the "Hooray Henrys" that are all too common on the Solent.

The mooring are growing but the waiting list is getting longer, although there are in the order of 100 British boats in LRB during the summer months only "35 ish" have a permanent

place and are Morbihan passport holders, these people have a number of advantages over other mooring holders including free stays at 25 other marinas up and down the French

west coast. Far left, Assumption day at LRB and the villagers following one of the bands around the water front, its a 2 day event and holiday for the towns around.

Time to set sail again, this time going a little north into the Morbihan and up the Auray river to Bono as we did last year, only this time we took our dinghy up to Goustan which

is under a bridge I cannot get Odysseus past. This is a lovely village and very old, unfortunately I ran out of fuel coming back and managed to get towed back the last 1/2 mile or so.

The weather was beginning to change so we opted to go up to Vannes and stay there until it blows over. This years weather has not been as good as usual, we have had a number

of westerly fronts moving across the area during August and September, though the temperature has been ok we have had more rain and winds.

We have been moving around the area every 2 days (as they are free) until we go back into the Villain about the 2nd week of September.

Back in LRB

The boat is all set for the winter now and we are going back home, its not been a good back end to the year, too much rain, but still managed to have a good time. The fridge worked

very well and my new sail stack was successful, 2 more Scanmars came into the river this year so got them to sign up to the Scanmar WEB site.

Last lunch out, oysters and cold rose' wine!!!

Looking forward to a good holiday now!! ...... may be South Africa.